Weeks 26-29: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year... en retard! :)


Week 26
12/02-12/08

This week was good. We're starting to get back into a regular routine. We didn't go up to Kuma Dunyo to meet with Cafe Kuma, but I did meet with ICEC and CIFAID, the microfinance organization and cyber cafe I'm working with. Nadia's homologue at ICEC identified two employees who I will train to carry out their computerization project. I was pleasantly surprised that one of his choices is a young woman who works with women's savings groups. I think she'll benefit a lot from the knowledge. Now I just need to finish documenting the organization's current business processes, and we can start talking about what tasks we can automate.

We finally had another web design class at CIFAID on Friday. I was planning to cover methods of formatting text in HTML, but my homologue requested that we finish cover the configuration options in BlogSpot. We'd already covered the most important features and I sort of felt like we were backtracking, but we managed to cover a few useful nuggets that I'd previously skipped over. I later asked my homologue if he'd prefer to use our sessions to talk about other forms of website templates like yahoo's geocities instead of HTML. He said he'd like to continue with HTML, but that it's a bit difficult to understand. I promised that I'd work to develop better pre-tested examples and a more structured approach for our lessons.

I don't think my current outline method of teaching is working so well. I try to answer every question with an example, which requires me to generate examples on the fly. That's usually fine, but I often boof up or accidentally introduce tags and attributes we haven't covered yet, which leads to more questions and confusion. The next time we meet, I'm going to try to have a prepared script that I will test with Nadia ahead of time.

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Week 27
12/09-12/15

Lydia, our site mate here in Kpalime, said goodbye to her friends and neighbors here in Togo and boarded a plane early Tuesday morning. We waited with her at the airport in Lome from midnight to 4:00am, when the check-in desk opened. We're really sad to see her go. She has been a huge help in our acclimation to work and life in Kpalime. I know she's moving on to new and even more exciting things, though.

We spent the rest of the week getting Lydia's house ready for us to move into. We had a few leaks in the roof repaired, changed the locks, fixed the broken front gate, and painted the house. It looks really nice, and we're excited to move in tomorrow. The temporary house is all packed up. In the morning, I'm going to disassemble the bed, find a taxi-bus, and move everything across town.

I still get butterflies in my stomach when I get ready to haggle over prices for services like transporting furniture. I've got 5000 FCFA (about $12) in my pocket, and that's my limit. I'm not sure it's going to cut it, but here's hoping. I'm still amazing at Nadia's proficiency with "discuter-ing". She's freaking amazing...friendly, but spirited and adamant. Sob stories and sworn minimum prices are usually enough for me to cave, but not my lady. No, no, no. I thoroughly enjoyed watching her work her magic on the folks doing repairs on the house this week. If there's one thing I hope to learn from my Peace Corps service, it's how to effectively negotiate prices, and I'm learning from the master.

I can't believe it's almost Christmas. I got a hold of some assorted Christmas music this week, so now I'm jammin' to a little Holly Jolly Christmas while I type. I love the holidays. I have most of my Christmas cards ready to send out to the family back home, but I waited too long. Now they're probably not going to get there until mid to late January. Oh well, it's the effort that counts, right? Maybe I'll just send an e-card to tide them over.

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Week 28
12/16-12/22

We finished moving into the house over the weekend. I negotiated a darned good price for the transportation for the furniture. I though it would take two trips in the taxi to move all the furniture and stuff, but the driver wanted to do it in one trip to save gas. The result was a feat of engineering reminiscent of a college science project. Furniture rose 5 feet above the top of the car and 6 feet behind the back. The driver wove an intricate design of cross ropes between chairs and tables as they extended outside of the car on all sides. I really wish I'd taken a picture. Anyway, all the baggage survived the treacherous journey across town and was safely deposited at the new house.

Nadia and I spent the rest of the week overseeing the repairs to the roof and the painting of the house. Before, all the walls were whitewashed. Now half the house is a nice light blue and half is kind of a lavender. It's really pretty.

This place is huge. It's got to be around 2000 sq feet, at least twice as big as our last apartment in Texas. We spent a good amount of time trying to figure out what to do with all that space. We have a master bedroom, a guest bedroom, a spare guest bedroom/storage room, a bathroom, a bike storage room, and a large open living area that we split into a dining area, a living room area, and an office. It feels a little weird living in such a large house. It feels a little weird living in such a big house, but it's nice having room for other volunteers to stay over when they come into town to pick up their mail or to buy food in the market.

Now everything is repaired, painted, and arranged. It looks and feels like a little piece of home. We discovered a few quirks about the house, though. First, there are several buttons that ring a buzzer in the house next door. Apparently an older couple lived here a long time ago, and would use the buzzer to summon house servants when they were hungry or needed help moving from room to room. I haven't figured out how to disable the buzzer, and we've accidentally set off the buzzer a few times. I also figured out that most of the light switches and electrical outlets were installed with their own fuses. Half the fuses are burnt out, though, so I spent half a day swapping fuses out to enable the most convenient switches and outlets. It's really a clever system and a nice alternative to a central fuse box.

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Week 29
12/23-12/29

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

We spent last Friday up in Kuma Dunyo with Kodzo, one of Nadia's homologues. We ate some really good fufu and peanut sauce, and we talked about Togolese and American Christmas traditions with Kodzo's family. It was a very special time, and we spent the night, intending to leave the next morning.

Getting out of Kuma Dunyo is always a bit of an ordeal. Normally, we go on the main market day for Kuma Adame, a neighboring village. Usually at least one car goes down to Kpalime on market day, but there are only three taxi's in town. On this particular Saturday morning, though, we were completely unable to locate a car. Two of the taxis were rented for a funeral in a neighboring village. The third taxi was broken down, and no mechanics would be coming into town for a few days. Instead, Nadia and I just walked around 20k back down the mountain. It wasn't too bad, since we didn't bring too much stuff and it was downhill, but we're really going to have to figure out a solution to this transportation issue. I'm going to try to fix my bike, which is having serious braking issues. Then maybe we can take taxi up the mountain with the bikes, and then just bike back down.

We spent Christmas in Vogan, a city in southeast Togo. We headed down on Sunday, stopping for a few hours in Lome to meet up with some other volunteers. When we finally arrived at the Vogan volunteer's house, we were greeted by Christmas lights and all sorts of crafted Christmas decorations. Our host had cut and hung paper snowflakes and paper snowmen with all the guests' names. She even had a little Christmas tree with little gold decorations with our names. It was beautiful.

We spent Christmas Eve and Christmas day in Vogan with 10 PCV's and a 3 non-PCV Americans who were visiting another volunteer. We cooked up three chickens for dinner Christmas Eve, along with mashed potatoes, garlic sauce, cucumber salad, and apple pie. That evening we watched as some of the neighbors set up bonfires and took turns jumping over the flames. I don't know if that had any cultural significance or if they were just drunk. :)

We listened to a neighboring church that celebrated by singing until 3 or 4 in the morning. Then we got up on Christmas morning to exchange our secret Santa gifts. I got an apple pie and some Skittles. Score! Nadia was given a very pretty wrap-around skirt. We were able to talk to our families back in Texas, and it was an all-around great day.

We got back to Kpalime the evening of the 26th, and I continued my web design class that Friday. This time I prepared a detailed set of examples ahead of time and saved them on a USB key for reference. Then I did a practice run with Nadia to make sure I was explaining things clearly. She gave some helpful feedback, and the training session went over great with the guys at CIFAID. I was very encouraged because they really seemed to understand and were genuinely excited to try out what they learned. Anytime a question strayed off-topic, I just redirected it and said we would cover it in a future session.

Thank you Mom, Tim, Molly, Grandmere, Barbara, David, Donny, Grey, Lynn, Gary, and everybody at GSA for the packages!!! They were VERY generous and we really appreciate you guys thinking about us this holiday season.

Weeks 14-25

Ok, I've been really slacking on the updates here.  :)  I've been writing the posts, just not uploading them.  Anyhoo, here are the posts for the last three months.

 

Everything is great here in Togo.  Thanks everyone for your prayers and support!

 

- Tristan

 

 

Week 14
9/09-9/15

Week three at post was a lot of fun.  On Tuesday, Nadia and I went up to Kuma Dunyo in the mountains to visit Cafe Kuma, the coffee producing cooperative Nadia and Lydia work with.  Lydia's brother was visiting from the US, so the Kuma Dunyo crowd treated us to a fancy manioc/igname mélange fufu.  Several Cafe Kuma guys came down to Kpalime on Friday, too, to bag and seal a fresh batch of coffee bags.  Now I've seen the whole coffee production process, from growing to harvesting to roasting to grinding to bagging.  Cool stuff.

We also learned that the wife of one of Nadia's homologues just died.  We knew she'd been feeling a little sick over the past two weeks, but this was really sudden.  She was only 30 and had just given birth to their first child six months ago.  It's really tragic, and I wonder how Nadia's homologue (in-country counterpart) is going to be affected in the long term.  People seem to be sad about death here, but it seems to happen fairly often.  For example, one of my homologue's employees died from a sudden illness a few weeks ago.  I don't know if people really death happens here more frequently than back home, but it seems to happen a lot more suddenly.

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Week 15
9/16-9/22

Work's going well this week.  Everyone at microfinance organization that Nadia's working with has been shaken up by the death of the director's wife.  We went to Amou Ablo, a large village an hour and a half north of Kpalime, on Saturday to attend the funeral.

Funerals in Togo are a huge community event.  During our training, there was usually at least one funeral every weekend, and nearly everyone in town attended at least some part of the involved activities, including the all-night wake, the funeral ceremony, and the day long feast in the center of town.  The funeral in Amou Ablo followed this same formula.  We rented a couple of taxis and rode with the microfinance organization staff.  The church was already full when we arrived, so we sat in a large group outside the church for the funeral service.  It was mostly in Ewe (the local language), so we didn't follow much that was being said, but the singing was beautiful.  Halfway through the service, someone handed out programs for the service that contained a man's name, picture, and family history.  We were concerned that we were attending the wrong service, but eventually we figured out that this was a joint funeral service.  After the service, we all walked across town to the graveside service, then went to a family member's home, where we shared a large meal of ablo and fufu.

It was a very sad day, but I'm glad that we were able to attend the beautiful send-off.  The family is very strong and seems to be taking it in stride.

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Week 16
9/23-9/29

We've been having ongoing issues getting the rest of the furniture we ordered a few months ago.  We already got our bed, a table for our stove, a sofa, and two chairs.  We'd been checking in on the carpenter to make sure he was progressing with the work, and we've been paying him in stages.  We made the mistake of paying him the rest of the money without actually seeing everything finished, though.  He told us everything was ready to pick up last week, but when we arrived, we saw that he hadn't even started the dining table and chairs we'd ordered.  I think he thought we'd forgotten or something.  After several more visits and a few heated negotiations, we finally got the rest of the order this week.  I don't really like or respect the carpenter anymore, but I do admire his fine work.  It came out beautiful.

Earlier in the week, a barber from down the street asked if I could meet him on Friday.  His apprentice had already asked me for money and a new set of hair clippers, but I figured I'd offer the boss a chance to talk about how to improve his business.  When I arrived on Friday, though, the barber was joined by several friends who explained they were collecting money to pay for orphans' school fees and supplies.  I explained that my role as a Peace Corps volunteer involved capacity building and knowledge-sharing and that I neither had money nor connections to organizations with money for the cause.  I asked if they had any ideas about income-generating activities for their cause, and they talked at length about opening a store that would "sell" food on credit and use interest to pay for local orphans' needs.  This sounded pretty fishy, but I figured it would be a good opportunity to practice doing a feasibility study.  I told the group I'd meet them next Friday to examine the details of their plan.

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Week 17
9/30-10/06

We recently started attending a church here in Kpalime that holds services in both Ewe and French.  We were invited to the church by the uncle of my homologue's wife.  He's a very nice man who works as an accountant for a missionary school for blind children.  He was kind enough to introduce us to several members of the church and also to several American missionaries at the blind school.  Through our new friend's help, we've been able to integrate with the church congregation and attend the services without drawing people's attention away from the worship.  This has been a great blessing, as we've been missing our church family back home.

After church this week, we headed out for our first trip down to the capitol without Peace Corps staff.  It was fun, and I think we're getting to know Lome better and better.  I spent a lot of time on the internet at the Peace Corps office and downloaded a virus scanner update and some handy tools for monitoring network traffic.

Work at CIFAID, my homologue's cyber café, is coming along nicely.  We've gotten the viruses cleaned off of most of the computers, and we've got most of the broken computers back up and running.  I'm amazed at the number of problems they're having with hard drives failing and RAM sticks going bad.

I am trying to get to know people at some other local cyber cafés and technical training centers.  Apparently, a couple of cyber cafés essentially went out of business a year or two ago when the state-owned telecommunications provider changed their internet access pricing scheme.  I talked with the owners of two such businesses this week.  One has now converted his building to a photocopy center.  The other is "open", but I have never seen a single customer or even seen a single computer turned on.  I think they might have a foreign investor who is able to pay the single employee who sits in the building alone all day.  That's just a guess, though.

On Wednesday, I had my first meeting with Data Technology, a local business that repairs cell phones and computer repair shop.  I'm not sure if there's anything I can really do to help them with their work, but I talked about what I do and they talked about what they do.  We're going to meet again in a few weeks to talk about their business goals.

I met with the barber and his friends that were trying to raise money for orphans again.  They keep asking me to take pictures of the kids to send to people in the US and so I can ask for money.  I walked through a long list of feasibility study questions about their idea for opening a small shop.  I asked them to write the questions down and come back in a few weeks when they've thought about the answers.  I get the feeling that these guys just want me to give money, but one or two guys seem interested in what I have to say.

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Week 18
10/07-10/13

Lightning struck the Togotelecom tower in Kpalime over the weekend, so phones, fax, and dialup are down for the city and all surrounding villages.  I visited the local Togotelecom office with Maurice, my homologue, to reactivate CIFAID's old ILLICO account.

ILLICO is a wireless phone and internet service that was introduced a few years ago.  I'm not sure about the technical details, but it uses something similar to cell phone towers to instead of fixed phone lines.  It was fast, affordable, and much more reliable than standard dial-up.  Apparently it was more popular than expected, though, and the pricing scheme from a flat rate to a much less affordable hourly rate to cover the cost of all the network traffic.  Now ILLICO is only rarely used.

Anyway, CIFAID got their account reactivated.  They had to raise the price they're charging customers, but I've been able to notice a sizeable improvement in web surfing response time.  I'm curious if Kpalime customers are willing and able to pay this increased price.

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Week 19
10/14-10/20

This week we had a big birthday bash for Nadia, my wife.  We had a fancy lunch at Chez Fanny, a local hotel & restaurant.  Then we made brownie banana splits with bananas, Reese's Pieces, chocolate cake, and Fan Milk, the local ice cream.  It was FANTASTIC!  We ate ourselves sick and then had a movie marathon over at Lydia's (the other Kpalime volunteer) house.  It was a blast.

We are officially on "stand-fast" security alert here because national legislative elections take place next week.  I've been told that heavy campaigning is only allowed during the two weeks leading up to an election.  That's a very interesting way to regulate campaign costs.  I think political parties use publications and word of mouth to advertise their platform positions ahead of time, but rallies and radio/television promotion are only allowed just before the elections.  Anyway, the result is that no Peace Corps volunteers are allowed to leave their village or city until PC admin gives us the go-ahead.

There was a little trouble in Togo a few years ago with the presidential elections, but no one is really expecting any problems with these legislative elections.  I have to admit that I'm a little nervous, but seeing as how we're only two hours from Lome, 15km from Ghana, and 17km from the training site for the new group of Peace Corps trainees, I think we'll be fine even in a worst-case scenario.

CIB, a national chain of cyber cafés opened their third branch in Kpalime this week.  I don't know how that will affect CIFAID.  They are advertising a very low promotional internet usage rate, and they are saying that they are using HELIM, a new high-speed internet technology similar to ILLICO.  I didn't think HELIM was available outside of Lome yet.  CIFAID is still charging clients an increased rate to use ILLICO because Togotelecom has made no comment about when their fixed line service will be repaired.  CIFAID is still keeping most workstations occupied with clients most of the time, though, so I'm not too worried.

On Friday, I had another meeting with the guys at the barber shop about the shop they were talking about opening.  Only one guy showed up to the meeting, and he brought seven or eight kids to show me who he is raising money for.  I tried to push the conversation back to income-generating activities that they can do themselves, but apparently these guys only want me to do is give them money to buy pens and paper or to ask friends back in the US to "sponsor" them.  I respect their cause, but they don't seem willing to look for local solutions.  I believe that future meetings would be a waste of everyone's time, so I won't be meeting with them again.

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Week 20
10/21-27

On Monday, Nadia and I celebrated our second wedding anniversary!  We went out for a nice dinner at the Hotel Royal restaurant on the outskirts of town.  We shared a chicken salad, then I got a steak and Nadia got a mushroom chicken dish.  We finished it off with a dessert of pears and ice cream.  Fan-fricking-tastic.  I have to admit, my time with Nadia just keeps getting better and better.  We have been together for five years, and married for two, and I love her more every single day.  I truly am blessed to have found such a kind, caring, beautiful, strong, intelligent, talented, creative, supportive (did I mention beautiful?) partner.

ICEC, a microfinance organization that Nadia is working with, has expressed interest in computerizing some of their current operations.  They already have four computers (albeit, one is a Pentium 1 running Windows 95), but they are using a mix of random Excel spreadsheets and QuickBooks projects.  Nadia and I are meeting individually with each of the employees to discuss what they do, what data they collect, what reports they generate, and how they think a computer might be able to help them increase their effectiveness.

I'm very interested in this project.  I think we'll end up just networking their existing computers and creating a set of shared Excel spreadsheets with some macros for creating reports, but we're gathering requirements.  I don't want to set up anything that ICEC's staff won't be able to maintain and modify, themselves, in the future, but I want to make sure that the system fits all their needs.  I'm also thinking about how to maintain a concurrent paper system during the frequent power outages.  Nadia and I are documenting everything, and I'll post some the docs when they're finished in case anyone is curious about the project.

On Saturday, our missionary friend Joan invited us to the Baptist hospital in Adeta to help unload a large supply container.  It was interesting meeting a lot of Americans who've lived in Togo for over ten years.  We spent that evening playing cards with a handful of missionaries at a small Fall Fest party in Kpalime.  They carved a pumpkin and everything.  Fun times!

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Week 21
10/28-11/03

When I first got to Kpalime, my homologue and several other individuals expressed interest in learning how to create web sites.  I told them I'd work up some simple web design lesson plans and get back to them after I'd practiced my French a bit more.  Well, this week, I decided I'd talk with Maurice, my homologue, about starting some simple informal lessons with the staff at CIFAID, his cyber café.  We decided to schedule lessons every Monday and Friday with Maurice and another CIFAID employee.

For our first session on Friday, we started with something simple and tangible by creating a blog on BlogSpot.  I'll spend another session showing how to post via email and modify a blog's layout.  Then maybe we'll create a simple website with a web page template using Yahoo Geocities or something similar.  After that, we'll take a step back and start working with basic HTML.  I'm not sure how far we'll go after that.  I'd like to refine these informal lessons into something I could present in a larger classroom setting.  Then we could maybe eventually work up to DHTML and scripting.  First things first, though.

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Week 22
11/04-11/10

Maurice and Didier, a CIFAID employee, really enjoyed the web design lesson last week.  On Saturday, they each created their own blogs and made their own posts.  It was really cool to see them pick up and run with this information on their own.  The cyber café was too busy for lessons on Monday, but we continued on Friday by playing with various blog settings and templates.  I think we need to go ahead move to offline HTML lessons, though, because it's taking way too much time waiting for web pages to load.

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Week 23
11/11-11/17

For our third web design lesson, I gave a brief introduction to HTML.  I showed them how you can create an HTML document in Notepad and open it in Internet Explorer.  Then we experimented with changing the document header and background color and typing text in various fonts.  I think they were a little overwhelmed by all the different tag elements and attributes, but I assured them that we'd cover all of it in detail very slowly.

On Tuesday, we had a site visit from Alex Anani, the Assistant Peace Corps Director (APCD) for the Small Enterprise Development (SED) program in Togo.  We showed Alex some documents we'd drawn up about the computerization of ICEC, the microfinance institution Nadia's helping.  We also talked about the work we're doing with Cafe Kuma and CIFAID, my homologue's cyber cafe.  We also met with our homologues briefly, so Alex could get a feel for how they think our work is coming along.  It was actually a very productive day.  Alex had a lot of good constructive criticism and some helpful suggestions for the direction of our projects.

Cafe Kuma is working on a new arabica/robusta coffee blend, and we're giving out samples and surveys to see which percentage mixes and which roasts are more popular.  We traveled to Lome on Wednesday to give some samples out at the American Embassy.  It was a nice short trip, and we got to hang out with a few Peace Corps volunteers that were just finishing their service and getting ready to head back to the US.

On Friday, We visited the new Natural Resource Management (NRM) trainees in Nyogbo to give out some Cafe Kuma samples.  The trainees seem like a nice bunch... friendly, casual, and excited to be in Togo.

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Week 24
11/18-11/25
Mon Maurice too busy for class
Tue Atakpame with Adeze
Wed Sokode
Thur Thanksgiving
Fri return to Kpalime
- goats, pigs, chickens, and dogs in the taxis
Sat Christmas tree decorating with Joan

This week is Thanksgiving!  On Tuesday, we stayed the night in Atakpame, the Plateau Region's capital city to visit another volunteer.  Nadia really liked what she'd done with her house.  She said it reminded her a lot of Mexico.  Atakpame has a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains, and it does remind me a bit of Monterrey, Mexico.

On Wednesday, we met up with two other volunteers from our training group, and continued north to Sokode.  Sokode is enormous!  I believe it's the second or third largest city after Lome.  Like Lome, it has a definite city feel to it.  The unpaved streets are all sand, and neighborhoods are split into tightly knit grid of concrete compounds.  I was pleasantly surprised to find the market area much more casual and relaxed than any other market I've been to in Togo.  Absent were the dozens of overenthusiastic flashlight and sunglasses vendors.  There were no shouting matches between adjacent vegetable vendors.  Everyone just calmly asked if we were interested in their wares as we passed by.  I get the feeling that there are very few tourists in Sokode, and I wonder if that plays a part in this laid back vibe.

A fellow ICT (Information and Communication Technology) volunteer hosted Thanksgiving at her house in Sokode.  Her house is quite nice and has a beautiful garden out back.  We sampled her homegrown vegetables, homemade jam, and homebrewed wine.  We had somewhere between 15 and 20 volunteers at the Thanksgiving dinner.  We had turkey, dressing, macaroni and cheese, salad, mashed potatoes, several gravies, sweet and sour beets, fruit salad, guacamole, lime cheesecake, apple crumb cake, and pie.  I was impressed that everything but the macaroni and cheese was prepared fresh from local ingredients.  There are some darned good chefs volunteering in Togo.  We ate until we couldn't eat any more, and we still only ate about half the food.  It was amazing!

We headed back to Kpalime on Friday, and on Saturday, we helped Joan, a missionary friend, decorate her Christmas tree.  We spent the day listening to Christmas music, hanging tinsel, and eating cherry pie.  Mmmmm... life is good.

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Week 25
11/18-11/25

We headed out of town, yet again, this week to go to Lome for the 45th anniversary celebration of Peace Corps' presence in Togo.  We attended a ribbon cutting ceremony for some extension buildings for the Peace Corps bureau, and Nadia and I helped man a booth for telling visitors about the Small Enterprise Development program.  We got to meet some people from Peace Corps Washington and a few local dignitary types.  We also attended a fancy party at the country director's house where Nadia's homologue got to speak about his involvement with Peace Corps on stage in front of television cameras.  He did a great job, and we were all very excited for him.  The entire celebration was a blast, but I'm really looking forward to getting back into our regular routine back in Kpalime.

BTW, thank you Mom, Grandmere, Rhonda, Chuck, and Mrs Capuchino for the packages!  We reeeeeeeeally appreciate them!

We had to cancel our web design training last Monday because CIFAID was a little too hectic.  We missed the training last Friday, too b/c Nadia and I were out of town for Thanksgiving.  We misses classes again next Monday because we're going to Lome for the celebration of the 45th anniversary of Peace Corps in Togo.  Then we cancelled this Friday's training b/c Maurice and Didier had other business to attend to.  I hope we aren't losing too much momentum here.

Weeks 12-14 (weeks 1-3 at post)

Week 12 (Week 1 at post!):

Well, I'm finally at post in Kpalime!  Monday morning, all the new volunteers loaded our stuff into taxi vans.  We quickly said our goodbyes and everyone was off.  I actually lucked out on transportation.  Nadia and I had left a sizeable amount of stuff, including a propane gas tank, a gas stove, a large backpack, some training books, and various other items with Lydia, the current Kpalime volunteer.  It was way too much stuff to carry by hand across town to our house, and I really didn't want to have to rent a taxi to move it.  I was supposed to load my stuff and most of Nadia's stuff into a van with three other people, which probably would have been plenty roomy, but there were too many large items like mattresses and propane tanks on the roof.  Instead, since Kpalime is so close to Lome, I got a Peace Corps Land Cruiser to myself!  I even got to pick up the extra stuff (except for our bikes) from Lydia's before heading over to our house.  I had a little trouble remembering the location, since it was on a back road a little ways outside of town, but after about five or six wrong turns (no surprise to anyone who knows me) we found it. 
I spent the rest of the morning getting things arranged.

When I started getting hungry around noon, I decided it was time to meet the neighbours.  It's about a twenty or thirty minute walk to town without stopping to talk to people, but salutations are very important in Togolese culture.  There's really no way to stop and talk to everyone on the way to town, since there is some sort of bread/vegetable/petrol/etc. vendor stand in front of nearly every home.  I decided I'd stop give a "bon soir" to everyone I pass and only stop to talk when people actively called me over to their stands.  This turned out to be timed about right.  I stopped and introduced myself to people at a barbershop, a small dry goods store, a bread stand, a bar, and vegetable stand, and maybe another stand or two.  I particularly liked a sweet lady that sells bread with her family and a kid that works at the barbershop.

I grabbed an egg sandwich from a cafe in downtown, and headed to the market for a little shopping.  I mostly bought food items, whose prices are generally fixed by season, but I knew I needed some cookware, which would require a bit of haggling.  I only came away with one pot, but I was proud of myself for talking the price down by about a third.  It's the rainy season, so of course it poured as I walked home triumphantly with my pot and my sack of tomatoes, onions, garlic, bread, and bananas, stopping along the way to greet my new friends.

I visited my homologue at his cyber cafe on Tuesday, just to say hi and to establish a time for our first official meeting.  I took another trip to the market to buy some string to hang the mosquito net and to buy a few other odds and ends.  It poured again on the walk back, but at least I had an umbrella.   I cooked up some tuna tomato curry from the recipe book Peace Corps supplied us with, and it wasn't half bad.  This settling in thing was not too bad, even though my wife was still in Lome.

The next couple of days were a little rough.  Without Nadia there and without any real work schedule, I had trouble convincing myself to get up in the morning.  Nadia's homologue had helped us order a little bit of furniture from a local carpenter during post visit, but he was out of town until the end of the week, so all my time at home was spent sitting on a mattress on the floor.  Our mattress, like most mattresses in Togo, is just thick foam, and my tail end wore a sizeable dip into the mattress within the first few days.  I tried to make a few minor repairs to the house, like fixing a gap in the front door and replacing the broken lock on the bathroom door, but I learned that Peace Corps would only reimburse those costs if the landlord is unable to make them.  I wasted two hours trying to fix an impossibly ancient and rusted door latch on Wednesday, then spent the rest of the day just sitting on the floor looking at the ceiling and trying to pick up radio stations on a short-wave radio.

We had bought another cell phone in Lome with a SIM card from a different cell carrier from our first phone, and every time I tried to dial Nadia's number, I was told that the number did not exist.  Apparently there's some stupid call routing issue with phone numbers that start with a zero (and, of course, all new numbers start with zero), so I couldn't call Nadia, and by this time I was really starting to feel lonely.  I wasn't entirely surprised that I was affected this much by our time apart.  The previous year, Nadia spent a two-month stint in Washington DC for work, and I remember that the first two weeks being absolutely miserable.  After all our time in such close proximity thus far in Togo, though, I figured I'd enjoy a little time to myself.  No such luck.  I can't imagine what it's like for people with a spouse serving in Iraq.  That's got to be torture.

I stopped by the bank to get the money to pay for our furniture, and the bank manager told me we only had one more available withdrawal until I could show him a copy of our marriage license (since we have a joint account).  Nadia and I brought a copy to Togo, but we realized a few weeks earlier that it had gotten lost in the move.  We had left a copy with the Peace Corps bureau in Washington DC, but I couldn't get anyone at the bureau in Lome to request a fax copy.  My family attempted to fax it to a cyber cafe in Kpalime, but we gave up after a few hours of trying.  My mom finally was able to email a scanned copy about a week later.  THANKS MOM AND UNCLE DONNY!!!!

The rain finally let up a bit on Thursday, so I got dinner with Lydia and a Togolese friend of hers.  I was also able to get my bike from Lydia's house, which made the subsequent trips to and from town significantly more convenient.   I was finally able to talk to Nadia over the weekend, and things started to look up.  I started getting the house ready for her arrival by scouring the bathroom and scrubbing the living room floors.  Lydia got a hold of some cilantro, and we had a Mexican night over at her place.  We didn't have lard to make tortillas, but we made some pita-type chips that went pretty well with the refried beans, salsa, and pico de gallo.  Before I knew it, I'd rounded off week 1 at post.

Week 13 (Week 2 at post!):

I got up around 8:00 on Monday and tidied up the house (as best as I could) for Nadia's arrival.  I organized our stacks of training manuals and backpacks of clothes and swept a bit.  Then I sat at the door for about two hours rushing to the compound gate whenever I heard a car pass by.  She finally arrived around 10 or 11, and I haven't stopped smiling since.  She apparently had a great (albeit expensive) week in Lome polishing her French.  We did a little shopping that afternoon, and by the end of the first day, our house already started looking more like a home.

Nadia's homologue helped us pick out the fabric for the cushions for our sofa and chairs, but we knew we wouldn't get any furniture for at least another week or two.  The floor didn't seem so bad now that I had someone to sit next to, though.  Meanwhile, I started my newly established Monday/Thursday visits to CIFAID, my homologue's cyber cafe.  I took a look at his network setup.  They have about twenty PC's sharing a single dialup connection.  They're using a Windows XP box with Internet Connection Sharing as the server, which is not terribly secure.  I talked to Maurice, my homologue about setting up a simple firewall and about getting some software to monitor internet traffic.  I have a feeling that a lot of the already over-taxed bandwidth is being used by malware and other junk on the individual workstations.

We spent a lot of our time sorting out daily chores, like where we could wash dishes and what to do with our garbage.  Things are going great this week, though.  I'm finding that Nadia is an amazing chef, and I'm at least a passable one.  I'm looking forward to expanding to more complicated recipes.

Week 14 (Week 3 at post):

We spent a lot of time this week dealing with furniture.  The carpenter told Nadia that everything was ready to pick up on Tuesday.  We gave him an extra day, but when we went on Wednesday, he hadn't even started on the table and chairs we ordered.  We finally got the stuff that was finished to the house on Thursday, so we have a place to sit and the stove is no longer sitting on the floor.  Hooray!

I configured a simple firewall for my homologue's cyber cafe and spent some time removing viruses from various computers.  I think I'll spend some time next week looking for some downloadable software for monitoring network traffic.  I'm starting to wonder what other things I can do to get the most out of the shared dialup connection at CIFAID.  I assume Windows' Internet Connection Sharing does at least a fair job queuing internet requests and preventing large requests from completely hogging all the bandwidth.  If I were a little more comfortable with Linux, I'd probably try to set up a Linux machine for the server.  I'm a code monkey by trade, so all this network admin stuff is a little outside my realm of expertise.  I'm learning, though, little by little.

I talked with the director of a small computer training center near our house.  He said he's interested in learning more about Linux and web design (specifically Dreamweaver).

***IF ANYONE HAS A GOOD RECENT LINUX DISTRIBUTION THEY CAN MAIL ME ON CD, THAT WOULD BE A HUGE HELP.*** :)

I also met with the owner of a small computer repair shop that doubles as a small cyber cafe.  We didn't talk about much, and I don't quite know what I can help him with, but we're going to meet next week to discuss his business.

I'm spending a lot of my time at home preparing a training program for web site creation, since there seems to be a market for simple web development services here in Kpalime.

Finally, thanks soooooo much, mom, Staci, and Erika for the packages you guys sent.  The cd's are a huge help, and we've been thoroughly enjoying the candies and tabasco.  Merci beaucoup!